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Extreme
softness, vivid colors and translucent texture
characterize the silk weaving of India.
Varanasi,
an important silk weaving center is famous not
only for its brocade or kinkab (superb
weaving in gold and silver), but also for the
wide variety of techniques and styles.
The
brocades are distinguished by apt poetic names
like chand tara (moon and star),
dhupchhaon (sunshine and shade), mazchar
(ripples of silver), morgalla (peacock's
neck), bulbul chasm (nightingale's
eyes).
Varanasi
is also famous for the tanchoi saree, which
resembles a fine miniature. Its origin can be
traced to three Indian Parsi brothers by the name
of Choi. In tanchoi sarees the designs
are always floral with interspersing of birds.
Mubarakpur,
is one of the important silk weaving centers in
the area.
Jamdani
or 'figured Muslim' traditionally woven in Dacca
is now the specialty of Tanda in Faizabad.
The cotton fabrics is brocaded with zari threads.
Each
region has its typical technical skills and variations
and the silk of Mysore, Kanchipuram, Murshidabad
and Kashmir are as well known as the
cotton sarees of Bengal or the cotton and silk
maheshwaris of Madhya Pradesh.
The
famous ikat technique is used in the Patolas of
Gujarat and Orissa.
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